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stoneyboy

Hi jamgars, From your description it sounds like you have fully filled the space between the rafters with insulation so there is no gap between the top of the insulation and the underslaters felt. I suspect you will find condensation to varying degrees above all the insulation. If breathable undersl...

stoneyboy

Hi inexorabilis,
The new gaskets should be a tight fit in the gap, if you have found synthetic ones warm them in hot water before fitting.
A dehumidifier will help with condensation but it may take weeks of running it continuously before you see any reduction in mould growth.
Regards S

stoneyboy

Hi inexorabilis, Yes replacing these seals is an easy DIY task. It won’t cure your mould problem but should stops drafts. It’s less easy to get the right size wedge gasket, they generally come in 3, 4, 5, 6mm section. Pull out a section of the existing gasket and order a metre of a similar size and ...

stoneyboy

Hi jennylaslo, Suggest you approach this issue one step at a time. Sort out the leak on the toilet side and see if this cures the problem-yes it will take a long time. It may be that damp from the toilet side has got under the stud wall and into the carpet under the kitchen floor, this will be worse...

stoneyboy

Hi William Molesworth, Self drill anchors are fine where there is only a vertical force on them, where they are subjected to a force pulling them out from the wall they are pretty useless_ Use hollow wall anchors where the flutes fold and splay to give a secure fixing. If you can find studwork suppo...

stoneyboy

Hi andysea, It looks like you have tiles with a rough porous surface. If this is correct your theory that water is getting behind the sealant bead may be correct. You could try cutting back the silicone bead and treating the tiles with sealant but since the shower has been used soap residues will be...

stoneyboy

Hi wonkus,
Definitely fix your battens in the same position as the studs.
Using screws to direct fix plasterboard onto the OSB may lead to spot cold bridging. Suggest you use sticky foam instead.
Regards S

stoneyboy

Hi stevebar,
The issue may be that because you have removed the sealing layer of PVA and paint the exposed plaster is sucking water out of the nomorenails so there is no adhesion. Try applying the adhesive to the painted wall and see if this sorts the problem.
Regards S

stoneyboy

Hi rbannocks, The droughts you are experiencing are probably due to cyclic air movement with heat from your radiators being the primary upward flow, I doubt you would gain much benefit from insulating paint. If you cannot insulate the roof your best option would be to fit false ceilings with at leas...

stoneyboy

Hi katyface, It looks like the battens have been fitted as part of the installation of the new consumer unit. They appear to protrude in part around the edge of the consumer unit. To allow for making a plaster finisher around the consumer unit the batten needs to be refitted so it does not protrude,...

stoneyboy

Hi rhardwin,
Using caulk or paper jointing tape may lead to cracks forming in the corner join.
Either use self adhesive fibreglass scrim tape and blend down the wall with a thin coat of plaster or fit plasterboard type coving.
Regards S

stoneyboy

Hi mjcopo,
Wickes stock 21mm thick floorboards which I found to be better than standard softwood floorboards or 22mm chipboard sheets. You can either accept the joins won’t line up or machine the floorboards down to size.
Regards S

stoneyboy

Hi tedpea,
I’d recommend you use a 6:1:1 building sand, Portland cement, hydrated lime mix with additive. Rake out the loose mortar, damp the mortar line, fill with the mortar mix and tool it off once this can be done without creating a messy joint.
Regards S

stoneyboy

Hi millsy5, I suspect that the base rail for your shed is fixed down into the concrete base and its section is such that any rain running down the shed panels is channelled outwards. If this is correct, did you use any mastic sealer between the base rail and the concrete base? If not you will have t...

stoneyboy

Hi andyred,
Suggest you buy some ledged and braced doors which will be oversize but are easy to trim to the dimensions you’ve given. You could try a reclaim yard where the doors will be better quality but will probably need renovating.
Regards S

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Re: Staining Behind New(ish) shower sealant

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Re: Thermal insulation paint and micro climates.

Re: Filling gap in plasterboard around New consumer unit

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Re: Making odd size doors

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