Hi wonkus,
Definitely fix your battens in the same position as the studs.
Using screws to direct fix plasterboard onto the OSB may lead to spot cold bridging. Suggest you use sticky foam instead.
Regards S
Hi stevebar,
The issue may be that because you have removed the sealing layer of PVA and paint the exposed plaster is sucking water out of the nomorenails so there is no adhesion. Try applying the adhesive to the painted wall and see if this sorts the problem.
Regards S
Hi rbannocks, The droughts you are experiencing are probably due to cyclic air movement with heat from your radiators being the primary upward flow, I doubt you would gain much benefit from insulating paint. If you cannot insulate the roof your best option would be to fit false ceilings with at leas...
Hi katyface, It looks like the battens have been fitted as part of the installation of the new consumer unit. They appear to protrude in part around the edge of the consumer unit. To allow for making a plaster finisher around the consumer unit the batten needs to be refitted so it does not protrude,...
Hi rhardwin,
Using caulk or paper jointing tape may lead to cracks forming in the corner join.
Either use self adhesive fibreglass scrim tape and blend down the wall with a thin coat of plaster or fit plasterboard type coving.
Regards S
Hi mjcopo,
Wickes stock 21mm thick floorboards which I found to be better than standard softwood floorboards or 22mm chipboard sheets. You can either accept the joins won’t line up or machine the floorboards down to size.
Regards S
Hi tedpea,
I’d recommend you use a 6:1:1 building sand, Portland cement, hydrated lime mix with additive. Rake out the loose mortar, damp the mortar line, fill with the mortar mix and tool it off once this can be done without creating a messy joint.
Regards S
Hi millsy5, I suspect that the base rail for your shed is fixed down into the concrete base and its section is such that any rain running down the shed panels is channelled outwards. If this is correct, did you use any mastic sealer between the base rail and the concrete base? If not you will have t...
Hi andyred,
Suggest you buy some ledged and braced doors which will be oversize but are easy to trim to the dimensions you’ve given. You could try a reclaim yard where the doors will be better quality but will probably need renovating.
Regards S
Hi millsy5,
It depends on how thick you make the mortar layer but a 12.5kg bag of cement and 2 bags of building sand should be plenty. Do use plasticiser admixture to make mortar more workable and to extend its useable time.
Regards S
Hi girlie26,
It’s difficult to comment with the low angle the pictures ar taken from but it looks as though the bottom row of tiles has been replaced with an eaves protector strip. Suggest you get in a roof survey company and see what they report.
Regards S
Hi ghh, However you try to insulate the gap from within your loft you are likely to end up with gaps which may allow cold bridging on the ceiling below. You will have most success by stripping off the tiles battens and felt and then fitting PIR insulation sealed in place with expanding foam. PIR sla...
Hi wolfatthedoor. Try fitting a length of brush nylon self adhesive draught seal on the hinge side of the door. You may have to use one designed for garage doors if the gap is large. Don’t forget to clean the frame where the strip is going to go with a solvent. Composite doors are probably the best ...
Hi ajsm,
If you are going to form the new step with its top surface below the DPC level do not use anything in the join. The only problem will be that you will have a 480mm+ step to get over the door threshold.
Regards S
Hi burt12345, It’s difficult to say whether your proposal will solve the problem. It is possible that the blue membrane lapped too far into the valley was allowing rainwater to ingress by capillary action. It sounds like you have a lead valley gutter and slate roofs either side, it could be that the...
