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Gypsy07

the simplist way i would do it is to cut 10" square strips of plaster board. dot and dab those so yoou can dot and dab straight on top. have done this hundreds of times in repair work where a thicker wall is needed. it saves dot and dabing twice . be sure to leave 24 hours between strips and f...

Gypsy07

you can double board, or fix the first board to the studs. and use dry wall adhesive to bed out the second board to gain the required thickness.You can also use the adhesive to attach the board directly to brickwork So for doing that, you don't use screws on the second boards, is that right? Just t...

Gypsy07

Thanks welsh brickie - I think that would be my choice of what to do as well, if it weren't for the fact that the sag is 5" in places! I can't pack the joists up 5" and still expect to be able to nail down new floorboards on to them. That's why I was thinking of offering up new 2" wid...

Gypsy07

I've removed a lot of ancient lath and plaster from various stud partition walls in my flat and I'm now about to start replacing it with plasterboard. The original plaster was about 2" thick. The plasterboard I'll be using is 12mm. The walls have to meet up with original cornice work all round ...

Gypsy07

A new floor independent of the old one? That would be nice! But apart from attaching new joists directly on to the sides of the old ones, how would I go about making them secure? The two rooms I am working in don't go as far out as the outer walls of the building so I don't have the opportunity to l...

Gypsy07

I'm in the top floor and attic of an 1890s building. There's been a fair bit of settling in the past and the floors run off from the back of the building to the front. The joists have also sagged in the middle of the rooms. To bring them up to straight and (almost) level, some bits will need to be r...

Gypsy07

Legally you should be paying council tax as soon as your static caravan is in place and habitable, even if you're not actually living in it. If it's unoccupied you get an 'empty property' discount, but you are still liable for council tax even when it's unoccupied. I know this because for the last t...

Gypsy07

You could roll the carpet back and use decorators caulk round the edges of the room to seal the gap between floor and skirting board. That should stop the draughts and the dirt that comes with them.

Gypsy07

The dust won't damage the rest of your new decor, just be prepared to spend a fair bit of time cleaning up after sanding. Or you could do the floors first then protect them with polythene sheeting and old carpet while you're doing the rest of the decorating. Personally I'd leave them till last though.

Gypsy07

I imagine it's because floors usually have all manner of gas pipes, water pipes and electrical cables running under them. When you're nailing floorboards down you have to be careful not to burst anything important, and that's easy when you can just look at the bare joists and see where all the pipes...

Gypsy07

This sounds almost exactly like the upstairs level of my flat. I couldn't believe what I was seeing when I started lifting floorboards and removing rotten lath-and-plaster and found the stud walls were just sitting on the floorboards BETWEEN joists. And not even sitting flat on them, but floating an...

Gypsy07

Even if you ARE allowed to, in the interests of good neighbour relations it would be a good idea not to just go ahead without first consulting the other people involved. If my neighbours did something like that in my open loft without asking me first, I'd be pretty angry. Not at the actual alteratio...

Gypsy07

hi there is only 1 answer , take it down and replace with new lath and plaster or plasterboard. why would you want to repair a mess? you could just cut out the area which needs it and replace with board. hope this helps Um, thanks for the opinion, but there's no way I'm taking any of it down till i...

Gypsy07

1890s building, internal renovations progressing, all plaster removed from walls. Brick walls underneath, mortar dry and loose and crumbling out. Two of the walls are load bearing but are only supporting a roof (I'm in the top floor & attic) and one of them is non load bearing. I've been advised...

Gypsy07

Can anyone please advise me on how best to secure a slightly loose lath & plaster ceiling from above? It's a two storey flat (top & attic) in an 1890's building and due to extensive renovations the upstairs is in a fairly shell-like state. I've lifted all the floors, so have great access to ...

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Re: plasterboard

Question about plastering/skimming plasterboard

Best way to level up uneven joists in old building?

Internal walls, crumbling mortar. Suggestions please!

Securing lath & plaster ceiling from above?