Hi mate,
Basically you should put it on at 11mm but if you need to go deeper then you can just keep building out to your required depth in stages of no more than 11mm.
Hope this helps
Ross
If its going to be tiled mate you shouldn't have a problem just using ordinary plaster board. If you want to be extra careful though you can now get moisture resitant boards which are supposed to be good although in my experience there no better than the ordinary ones and are twice the cost!! Hope t...
Hi mate if you want my advice i wouldn't even think of skimming an external angle without a bead if it's ninety degrees then you need a thin coat angle bead if it's a splayed angle you need a 3mm stop bead. If your seeing the beads through your work the best advice i can give is to run your hand up ...
you should put a scratch coat on about 6mm thick first mate with water proofer in to give it some weather protection leave it to dry a bit and then top it off with another coat. i'd personally use the scratch coat to stick your beads on with as it doesn't have to be flat it just has to be back from ...
Basically mate theres bagged backing plaster that you can get now thats just as good as sand and cement i'd personally use tough coat or hard wall you can get it from any builders merchant. If you still insist on using sand and cement then i'd use a mix of 4:1 make sure you add plasterciser to each ...
If its the brown side out mate you shouldn't by rights plaster it but to be honest it doesn't make to much difference. If the boards are old your skimming can go off quicker than usual but personally i still wouldnt pva although i know plasterers that do but again it can affect the way your plaster ...
The only problem i can see mate is that you'll be dragging gravel into your render. The best thing to o is to bead off the bottom just above the gravel and work off that. Might stop you getting any damp in it as well mate.
Right o mate you only need one coat of backing plaster and a skim coat on the top. If you want my advice though mate on old walls i'd dot and dab as you'll find that your backing plaster will dry a bit quick. You'd still only need a skim coat over the top of your bards but if it's your first attempt...
You can overskimm up to your coving just use a wet paint brush to tidy up the edges when your trowelling up. your coving will be afected by the thickness of your skimming over artex but you should have enough left to make it look right.
Hi mate, you shouldn't really pva plasterboards there designed to just skim straight on to. You might find that if you pva it you're skimming will go a bit jelly like which will make it more difficult to use. hope this helps mate.
Basically mate it's called the typewriter method because of the way you work. The idea is that you are always taking out your trowel lines. If you start at the bottom then when you get to the top you'll find your leaving trowel lines on the stuff youv'e just put on. Working from top left to bottom r...
It's as good as anything else you'll get mate if your walls are to rough to just overskim which would be cheaper. Just be aware that round your window reveals you might well lose the window profile with the extra depth i'd suggest either knocking off the plaster on your reveals or boarding up to the...
