DIY Doctor UK DIY Forums

stuart45

Lime mortar would be better if the original, not a repoint point was lime.

stuart45

Have you got a photo?

stuart45

The ceiling was tacked and then the wall built under it, so the joists are spanning over it. It may or may not be helping take some of the bounce out of the floor, it depends on the depth of the joist.

stuart45

Are there any joists sitting on the wall? If not it is probably not load bearing.

stuart45

To get the best look you probably need to cut out all the joints to a depth of around 20mm, and the decide and what colour and style of pointing you want.
Possibly a standard lime mortar with a flush joint finished with the churn brush.

stuart45

You could cut out and replace or maybe turn around the damaged bricks.

stuart45

A retaining wall is better with a proper drainage system at the back of it.
It would also benefit from a coping on top to prevent rain getting in from the top.
Render can often have problems when used on garden walls.
Was the hardcore well rammed down before the slabs were laid?

stuart45

is there a thickness to a wall where piers become uneccessary? Thanks! There is. Depends on which zone you live in and how sheltered it will be. If you look up the thickness of freestanding walls on the net, BRE have made a table with the advised thickness to the heights. I assume it's not a retain...

stuart45

Yes you can do. How tall will it be?

stuart45

Those type of bricks are not suitable for a Brick on Edge on a garden wall where they are exposed to the elements more than on an extension or house wall. Better to use something like a Staffordshire Blue.

stuart45

How tall is the wall? A photo or 2 would help.

stuart45

If it's just those few in the photo you can take them out and relay them and repoint the rest. Probably best for you to cut out the bed joints with a drill and ease the bricks out. Once you get one out the rest get easier.

stuart45

Forgot to mention that if I'd ended up with a split to get the right level at DPC, I'd probably have got it backfilled a bit quick to the bottom of the facework, so that might have pushed in some of the green brickwork a bit.

stuart45

Not really a serious problem. Looks like the ground level was higher at some point and the brickwork below the better quality facework was not intended to be showing. It sometimes happens on site that a split brick is used, or the brickwork overhangs slightly when it's corrected getting to were it s...

stuart45

Cavity walls are not required by Building Regs. Even today solid walls can be built as long as they meet the U values and other regs.
In tthe early 60's a solid 9 inch wall was OK as long as it was protected with cladding, render tile hung etc. U values first came in with the 65 building regs.

Project Type A - E

Project Type F - G

Project Type G - J

Project Type M - P

Project Type R - T

Useful Tips

Search found 15 matches

Re: Advice on What to use for Re-Pointing a Stone House

Re: Is my Fireplace About to Fall Down?

Re: Can I Knock Down Breeze Block Wall to Open up Rooms?

Re: Can I Knock Down Breeze Block Wall to Open up Rooms?

Re: Old Pointing in Uncovered Fireplace for Edwardian Chimney Breast

Re: Old Pointing in Uncovered Fireplace for Edwardian Chimney Breast

Re: Rendered and Infilled Patio and Wall Drainage Problem

Re: Breeze Block one Side Brick the Other for Garden Wall?

Re: Breeze Block one Side Brick the Other for Garden Wall?

Re: Major Brick Work Failure in Retaining Wall

Re: Double Brick Garden Wall and Advise to Repair one Side Only Please

Re: Crumbly mortar and damaged brickwork advice for 1970's extension

Re: Crumbly mortar and damaged brickwork advice for 1970's extension

Re: Crumbly mortar and damaged brickwork advice for 1970's extension

Re: Why was 1960's Converted Bungalow Built With Solid Walls?

Main navigation

Search found 15 matches