Agree with Perry that raising the tank is an option but IMO it seldom achieves very much in terms of static head improvement even if theres the headroom to do it. But its still an option.
When you say straight from the tank do you mean from a flange (Surrey etc) in the top of the tank or do you mean a separate draw-off on the side of the tank or do you mean you've tee'd it off the vent?
It may well be that the cause of the damp wasn't a failed DPC in the first place! I'd get yourself an independent Damp Surveyor to check it out rather than a DPC salesman.
Air in the rads is an indicator for bleeding - what sort of noise - is it air? When you repressuise with the system cold then it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar. Your boiler MIs will tell you what it is for yours. When the system heats up the water expands so the pressure rises. The expansion vessel...
Pu,ping over is caused by a number of possibilities: 1. The system is piped incorrectly. Don't think it will be that or your heating engineer would have spotted it. It should be boiler - vent - feed - pump. 2. The vent pipe isn't high enough over the F&E tank. 2. Pump speed too high. Your post d...
Is it paint or is it efflorescence? If the former repaint with one that is a) washable and b) not chalky. Use a vinyl matte paint. If the latter no plaster sealer won't do and neither will PVA. Brush (don't wash 'cos that will only make it worse) it all off and then paint with an anti-akaline primer...
Artex can be removed but I've never tried removing it from coving and theres a better than even chance of damaging the coving in the process. So it strikes me you have two options: just paint it or replace the coving to save time and energy.
Neither. You will have unbalanced supplies which will make your showering experience less than satisfactory. Also you are not allowed to pump mains. I assume you are suggesting that you tee off the cold from the rising main which goes to your CWST in the roof (which I am expecting you to have if you...
You have two choices: First is take it back and fit an electric as Htg suggests. The "but" is that you'll need a qualified sparks to do the electrics for you and it will need a new dedicated RCD circuit from the consumer unit in 6 or 10mm CSA cable. THis will be an additional cost to balan...
In this case we need to differentiate between: a) the hot water takes a long time to get there although the pressure is fine and; b) the water just comes out in a dribble whether its hot or cold. Which one is it? The former is a function of unlagged pipes and long pipe runs where no water has been d...