Need Some Advice on Damp Proofing 1930's Property with Dryzone DPC Cream Damp can be a major issue in the home. Find answers to questions or post your own here.

[andyguyatt]

we live in an old house built around 1930 so it has not got a cavity as such just a gap of around 12 to 15mm between the outside brick work and the inside brick work and we have a damp problem i have brought some dryzone dpc cream to inject a new damp course and take the plaster off to the brick to around the 1000mm and treat the brick work with some kind of chemical to stop any salt coming through the bricks then was gong to apply a sand and cement render with a water proofer but on taking the skirting board off the concrete slab is around the same height as the mortar line i need to inject or a little higher so injecting to the next course will make the new dpc 100mm higher than it should be which will cause damp at skirting height would it be possible to apply a liquid dpm to the brick work from the floor level to the 1000mm and inject at one brick higher than it should be, im not a complete novice as im a joiner but not really clued up on damp problems any help would be much appreciated

[Perry525]

Damp rises 4 feet, that's 120cm above ground
level.
It is recomended that a dpc should be at least
6 inches, 15 cm above ground level.
I think 9 inches and 19.5 cm is about right.

Is any earth or anything else bridging your dpc?

Salts are brought to the walls surface by water
evaporation - injecting dryzone won't stop this.

Are you writing, that your slab has a raised rim?

If you stop and think about it, you will realize
that there are thousands of buildings and
walls World wide that don't have a dpc. They
have always been damp, and have never come
to any harm.

Just make sure that your render and plastering don't bridge the dpc.

Then use a plastic skirting board.

Note: A damp/wet wall provides an express
route out for your expensive heat. Dry air is
2000 times better an insulation than a damp wall.