Bathroom bonding Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[early_911]

First post so please be gentle . . .

Having looked at the main sites info on bonding, I'm still not 100%, so I hope you don't mind me asking here (my searches weren't hugley sucessful either)

I've moved my bathroom upstairs. It has a non-electric shower, a basin, a tolilet, a resin (plastic) bath, a radiator and 2 (centrally heated) towel radiators.

On the electrics front, there is a pull cord extractor fan and two wall lights (swtiched from outside the room).


1. Do I need bonding at all?

2. Do I connect everything together (basin to towel radiators, towel radiators to bath, bath to shower etc, etc)?

3. Does the wire then go back to the consummer unit (as per the DIY manual I've got).

4. Does the pipe to the toilet need bonding as well.

5. Can the strap things (obviously not the tech term), be connected a little distance from the object (e.g. the pipe to the toliet is boxed in - could I connect a metre away where it's exposed . . . and the towel radiators . . . can the straps be hidden in the stud wall)

6. Can I use a 4mm earth wire (as this is what I've started to use).

Hope you can help,

Phil

[sparx]

Hi Phil, short answer, if fan is in roof space with no mains wiring accessible in room then as you have no 'current using equipment' in the room you don't need any bonding in the room, hot/cold can be bonded outside say in loft or airing cupboard & MUST NOT be taken back to consumer unit.
If cross bonding then 4mm if 'not mechanically protected', 2.5 if its enclosed.
I'm a bit concerned about wall lights though as I don't know of many that are suitable for use in a bathroom, except for in zone 3.
regards SPARX

[early_911]

[i]1. Do I need bonding at all? [/i]

[b]The Fan is through the wall, but has no main wiring visable. Does this make a difference?[/b]


[i]2. Do I connect everything together (basin to towel radiators, towel radiators to bath, bath to shower etc, etc)? [/i]

[b]Assuming I have to (or should just to be 100% safe) cross bond . . . . I presuming from your response that I can link them all together (heating and water)[/b]


[i]3. Does the wire then go back to the consummer unit (as per the DIY manual I've got). [/i]

[b]Urm . . . will have to kick off with the book people.[/b]

[i]4. Does the pipe to the toilet need bonding as well.[/i]

[b]???? [/b]

[i]5. Can the strap things (obviously not the tech term), be connected a little distance from the object (e.g. the pipe to the toliet is boxed in - could I connect a metre away where it's exposed . . . and the towel radiators . . . can the straps be hidden in the stud wall).[/i]

[b]Sounds like in stud walls will be okay (room has no loft space).[/b]

[i]6. Can I use a 4mm earth wire (as this is what I've started to use).[/i]

[b]Yes.[/b]

Hope you can help,

Phil

[b]PS. Lights are in Zone 3, so okay.[/b]



[b][/b]

[sparx]

As I said Phil just connect hot to cold to rad pipe in roof void/stud work with bonding clamps & 4mm cable, as wc pipe will be connected to cold pipework no futher bonding reqd.
SPARX

[armo]

Hi Sparx.......just a quick query.....Why must the earth bonding not be taken back to the main Earth ?.........thanks in advance....

[sparx]

For Armo, reason is if earth fault develops on another circuit, but not enough to blow fuse/ mcb then until it does all earthing would be at elevated volts, paticularly if pme neutral faulty connection, the voltage present may not be enough to hurt you with dry skin contact but in bathroom!!!!

[armo]

Thanks Sparx........see what you mean....ATB... :D

[early_911]

I couldn't get my head round connecting them all togther, but the diagram on the following site helped.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.4.3.htm