DIY Doctor UK DIY Forums

I believe that it is necessary to either provide above counter or in cupboard isolation switches for white goods in a kitchen. I would like to use a 3 gang switch to isolate a microwave, dishwasher and kick plate heaters however I am a little confused as to exactly how to achieve this.

My thought was to run the ring into the 3 gang switch and loop out the permanent lives, finally passing the live back out of the switch to the next socket on the ring. Iwould then run each switched live down to the relevant appliance socket.

Does this make sense or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?

any help greatly appreciated.

I think thats probably not alright but wait for the experts to tell you. I reckon you need fused spurs but dont take my word for it

Hi Wazou,
Do take Andy.Blackpools word for it as he is spot-on!
only other way is similar but instead of fused connection units a 20A double pole isolator sw. would be slightly neater but same wiring ie switches wired on ring with 'drops' to each single socket outlet(unswitched),
of course your 'part P' reg. leckie will confirm when he does it which is most effective way for your installation as this is not DIY legal [see projects ' part P
regards
SPARX

Thanks for the advice guys, my sparky is going to do the work, was just looking at wall planning for sockets etc so that they don't get in the way of the cupboards. I understand the point about the fused spurs, those are what I thought would go at the end of the drops to each appliance, they would just be fed from the switch above counter height.

Can I take it that the basic principle is ok, that I could run either fused switches off the ring for each appliance with drops to spurs or run switches off the ring that drop onto fused spurs i.e. switches above counter, appliance connections under counter (behind appliance rather than in cupboard)?

Thanks again.