DIY Doctor UK DIY Forums

Hi,

I have this socket (see the pictures) that I've got a washer and a dryer plugged into, but I'm going to put some cupboards there so the socket won't be accessible anymore.

I want to either move this socket to the left or add another socket there, whichever is easier, as I won't be using the existing socket due to its inaccessibility.




I thought that since there will be a washer (~10Amp), a dryer (~4Amp heat pump) and Ikea lights (<1Amp) plugged into that new triple socket, then maybe it's worth keeping it on the ring, what do you think?

As I understand if I keep it on the ring then I'll need two junction boxes to connect the new socket to the old socket, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to fit two such boxes within the existing backbox. Would it be fine to just connect everything with a bunch of wagos or each extension has to be additionally concealed in its own box? In this scenario I guess I'd have to cover everything with a blank plate as well.

Alternatively, I can add a spur socket which might be easier to do as long as its fine for this load since there wouldn't be any connectors/junction boxes involved. Is this a better way?

Regarding the new socket location, I'm going to have it surface mounted as the plaster is crap on that wall and it's going to sit inside the cupboard anyway, so I don't care about the appearance. I was going to just drill through the corner and have all the wires going through the sides of the backboxes. Do I have to keep the grey PVC where the wires will run through the wall or given the short distance (~20cm) the sheathing is not required? It might be a bit easier to bend the wires without it.

Finally, what sort of testing I should carry out once I've done all this and does this type of work have to be certified?

Thanks

To keep a socket on an existing ring is always preferable. Yes you can use wagos, to extend both cables, and yes you could leave them in the existing back box and put a blanking plate over said back box, doing this would also mean you can use the existing socket in the new position.

As for testing, you should use a calibrated multi function tester (Not a multi meter) as it can carry out multiple tests, you would also need to learn how to use one. (You did ask)

I would use a cooker connection unit as a junction box where the old socket is and spur from that to new socket.

Technically is says use maintenance free where not accessible, but what is not accessible? Some jobs I have worked on they have built walls, but consider the plant behind wall as accessible as easy enough to knock down wall.

Alterations to a ring should be tested, specially to ensure still a ring, the problem with DIY is lack of testing and possibility a ring becomes a an overloaded radial.

Thank you both for your advice. I think I'd better call an electrician then.

Especially given what you mentioned below. When I bought the flat and ordered EICR they found a split (which they then fixed). Don't want to introduce the same again given the appliances involved and that using a multi function tester is beyond my very limited DIY skills.

Mr White wrote:As for testing, you should use a calibrated multi function tester (Not a multi meter) as it can carry out multiple tests, you would also need to learn how to use one. (You did ask)

ericmark wrote:IAlterations to a ring should be tested, specially to ensure still a ring, the problem with DIY is lack of testing and possibility a ring becomes a an overloaded radial.