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what roof tiles for lean to roof 20 degree pitch
Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:26 pm
by smilerbatten
Hi All,
I am currently buidling my extension and have worked out that the roof pitch will only be about 20 degrees.
I have what i would think are flat plain concrete tiles in dark brown on my current house roof and would want to match them on the extension, but I cant find any at that pitch. Redland do a duo tile at 25 deg, but i dont think i will get away with this.
Any ideas or advice on what i should do?
Many Thanks
Jason
Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 11:44 pm
by stoneyboy
smilerbatten,
Have a look at the redland "slates" they make a stonewold concrete tile for pitches down to 17deg.
end
Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:08 pm
by smilerbatten
Thanks StoneyBoy.
they look perfect, i had been on the monier website but not looked at slate as i thought all slate was the charcoal looking tile, didnt realise they did concrete slate!
do you know if these are easy to fit? i have never laid a roof before, but have a chippy friend doing all the rafters and and openings for the velux, so thought that laying out the battens and the tiles cant be that difficult...is it?
Thanks
Jason
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:18 pm
by stoneyboy
smilerbatten,
If you have gable ends on your extension and you can fit complete tiles across the roof it is really easy, otherwise cutting will be necessary. Don't forget the clips on the last row you fit.
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Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:24 pm
by smilerbatten
Hi All (Stoneyboy),
I am just looking for a little more advice if you have time.
I have ordered the mini stonewold mock bond, but am now confused about the fitting.
You can buy half tiles, but apparently its cheaper just to cut full tiles for these mockbond tiles, but you can only cut these tiles into 3/4 according to the spec sheets and you can only cut from the left side and not the right side (according to redland tech support).
So i have a total width of 5695mm, each tile is 291mm in coverage (not inc the overlap) so i need 19.57 tiles to cover the width, the problem is i cant make a .57 tile I can only make a .66 so that its only a third cut!
So to start paying the roof, i start at the bottom right with a full tile and work all the way to left and leave enough over hang to accomodate down to a 3/4 tile.
On the next run, i start with a 3/4 tile and then work along to the left and again hope to end with a full or a cut down to 3/4 tile.
Does anyone know if this is correct or can i actually cut half tiles or cut the right hand sides?
Thanks
Jason
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:50 pm
by stoneyboy
smilerbatten,
The size of your tiles fitted is anything between 291 and 297mm.
The 3/4 bond is so that the tiles when laid will look like plain tiles.
If you are not worried about this appearance you could lay them at a staggered 1/2 tile bond, otherwise you will have to increase the width of the tiled roof by around 90mm. The extra overlap you may be able to accommodate in their dry verge fittings, depends if you have 2 gable ends.
end
Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 9:34 pm
by smilerbatten
Hi Stoneyboy.
I bought the dry verge system as when i researched this it seemed like the best and easiest way to finish the two gable ends. i bought two packs of 10, but i actually need two more!! but they only come in packs of 10 at £50 per pack! i will see how much the flashing can hide before i buy any more.
Anyways, i have one last question....i am half way through my roof laying and its going well. but i am not sure what i should be doing around the Velux windows, on the tile cuts, you can see under the tile from the sides of the Velux, i am worried that water could get in and whether its good practice to cement these tile edges as you would do a traditional gable end or whether people just leave it as is and let the velux flashing kit do their magic of keeping out the water?
Any thoughts? do you know what i mean?
Thanks
Jason
Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:43 pm
by stoneyboy
smilerbatten,
If you have the type of flashing (edz) with the foam rubber strip down it this is totally adequate.
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by TheDoctor4
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