Page 1 of 1

worcester 24 cdi boiler pressure

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:39 pm
by vw754
Ive just bought a new home,and with it came the boiler (which ive heard are very good)
Ive downloaded the user manual and read how to take the panel off the bottom of the boiler,insert the key turn untill it locks,then turn the grey knob anti-clockwise to fill,ive tried this and nothing happens,however if i turn the grey knob clockwise then i get water coming out the bottom.

I decided to try this as the pressure is just under 1 bar which i thort is too low,what is the pressure supposed to be at anyway?

I maybe having a new boiler anyway from warmfront,which is a boiler called ''ideal'' dont know what there like,and ''iguana'' are to fit it,just waiting to see how much excees cash they want first!
Any idea's on these boilers or any info would be appreciated.

Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:56 pm
by htg engineer
Ideally the pressure should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar but just under 1.0 is fine. The boiler will continuew to work until it drops to between 0 and 0.5 bar.

When you insert the key, did you turn it ? it has to lock into position. Also there's 2 rubber seals on the key check they are both there and in good condition. If they're no you can purchase new O rings or a new key.

If all fails, you can have an external combi fill fitted or you can fit a external combi fill yourself.

Why change the boiler if it's working ? I would save my cash and let the boiler run until it packs in and will cost too much to repair.

Hope this helps

Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:51 pm
by vw754
Im only going to have a boiler if its within the warmfront grant,if so then its free!

When i insert the key and turn it , it does lock,then i turn the grey knob underneath anti-clock wise (as stated in the user manual) but nothing happens. If i turn the knob clockwise then water come out somewhere around the key. Oh and the seals on the key are missing(they split and fell off)

Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 11:06 am
by Rinkerdink
OK,

Those 'O' rings are necessary to stop the leak you have described, you are correct that the grey knob operates in reverse to that stated in the manual. Get some new 'O' rings for the while plastic tap thingy and try again, you are on the right lines but MUST have the o rings in place.

Word of warning - do not over pressurise your system, it is unlikely to ever burst but you will activate the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) which is effectively a valve which is overcome by system pressure by way of a factory tensioned spring, these frequently get fragments lodged in the valve seat meaning they don't seal properly after being activated, this leads to very slow leaks and constantly having to top up your system. You can try and flush the prv seat clear but this is trial and error and best avoided all together. PRV can be seen on the right hand side of the boiler controls section normally with a red head - leave it alone!

Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:27 pm
by htg engineer
I'd imagine VW has sorted this problem, as this problem was posted in March.

htg

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:03 am
by TheDoctor5
Last year 64% of the questions asked in our forum were answered within our DIY project pages at www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects.htm The project pages are now separated alphabetically and your answers are accompanied by diagrams and the ability to see, and buy, the tools and/or required to complete your project. Use our search box to look for your answer and save a great deal of time and money!