DIY Doctor UK DIY Forums

Hey folks, first here so hoping you guys can help me with a problem.

The task I'm faced with fixing curtain brackets and to this plasterboard wall (see link for picture) as you can see it's been pulled down multiple times (I work within a dementia home) and in turn bringing the plasterboard with it. Now it's been patched up and moved that many times that the only solution I can see is fixing & gluing a baton to run across the top of the wall and fix the brackets to that.

My questions is do I run the risk of the whole top section plasterboard being pulled away IF the service users happen to pull it all down..?? There is 8-10" gap between the board and block work so can't really go into the block either...

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

https://s8.postimg.org/qgqf1zbdh/image.jpg

Hi Dan i do not think that fixing rail like this will suceed.It is unusual to have such a large space between plasterboard amd block, Would it be possible that you have a stud wall the plasterboard must be fixed to something.

Fred c wrote:Hi Dan i do not think that fixing rail like this will suceed.It is unusual to have such a large space between plasterboard amd block, Would it be possible that you have a stud wall the plasterboard must be fixed to something.

Thanks for your reply.

It is very strange to see that much of a gap between board and block. Where you can see the window frame in the picture, that's how much there is between the board and block. It's more 6/8" but enough to wear I can't effectively get a plug into the block to support the bracket.

I'm not sure if the board is fixed to stud but there's nothing along the top the wall to suggest that it is.

Kind of at a loss here because curtains need to be up but I can't think of anyway other than fixing a baton a support baton which even myself isn't sure that will hold over time...

Fred c wrote:Hi Dan i do not think that fixing rail like this will suceed.It is unusual to have such a large space between plasterboard amd block, Would it be possible that you have a stud wall the plasterboard must be fixed to something.

Thanks for your reply.

It is very strange to see that much of a gap between board and block. Where you can see the window frame in the picture, that's how much there is between the board and block. It's more 6/8" but enough to wear I can't effectively get a plug into the block to support the bracket.

I'm not sure if the board is fixed to stud but there's nothing along the top the wall to suggest that it is.

Kind of at a loss here because curtains need to be up but I can't think of anyway other than fixing a baton a support baton which even myself isn't sure that will hold over time...

Hi Dan try again to find stud. Try using a stiff wire to poke about in existing holes, if you are certain that there are no vertical studs its possible that the studs run horitzontal across window ope.If this is the case there should still be a vertical stud at each side of window.(I hope) You can then use these to fix your timber board to.You can also use adhesive to give it a little extra strength.If you cannot find any stud at all perhaps you could fix to ceiling joists.I know fixing to ceiling might seem strange but it might be your only option.

Fred c wrote:Hi Dan try again to find stud. Try using a stiff wire to poke about in existing holes, if you are certain that there are no vertical studs its possible that the studs run horitzontal across window ope.If this is the case there should still be a vertical stud at each side of window.(I hope) You can then use these to fix your timber board to.You can also use adhesive to give it a little extra strength.If you cannot find any stud at all perhaps you could fix to ceiling joists.I know fixing to ceiling might seem strange but it might be your only option.

Thank you again.

I will have a poke around tomorrow and see if I can find any studs. Hopefully I can as this is one job I'm baffled by.

cut the holes a lot bigger, to about 1 to 2 inches wide, mix some dry wall adhesive to a very thick cream consistency, and fill in the hole, over fill it and let it set. about 4 hours later using a paint scraper, scrape it back till its flat and sand it smooth.
Wait 24 hours before drilling it.