by plumbbob »
Thu Oct 09, 2008 1:46 am
Ah, yes, I see your point about how the hot water in the cylinder could get hotter than the cylinder stat setting. Of course, it could be due to the boiler firing longer. Test it by manually reducing the cylinder stat until it clicks off then fire the boiler up with the heating on and see if the pipework to the coil heats up. Obviously, it should remain cold.
The point against this though is the system should be able to be fully hot with the radiators AND the cylinder coil being heated simultaneously. If the lockshield valve in the cylinder circuit is missing or fully open this would indeed cause poor flow in the heating circuit.
Check for a bypass valve and ensure it is just cracked open as the cylinder lockshield should be.
If any of the radiators get red hot, shut the lockshield valve fully down then just open until you hear the flow of water start.
The trouble with 8mm is it needs such a high pressure in the system to force the water round and if a short circuit is possible then the water will gladly take it.
If the valve is leaking, then it needs to be replaced. Some spares are available, but only for the electrics and gearing. Not the ball valve assembly.