Fan isolator switch replaced Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[Ant_776]

Hi,

I have replaced the fan isolator switch on the en-suite for new BG chrome one. After what I thought was care carefully replacing the switch I have noticed that the fan does not come on anymore and the LED mirror no longer has power.

Does anyone have any ideas what I might have done wrong?

[Mr White]

Does anyone have any ideas what I might have done wrong?

I am going out to dinner, if you can tell me where I am going and what I am going to have, I will tell you what you have done wrong.

Obviously you can not correctly answer, as there is too little information, the same applies with your question, how do you expect the correct solution if you do not give enough information in the first place.

[2by4]

Can only guess.
Did you mix up SUPPLY terminals for LOAD terminals?
Did you mix up switch live for permanent live?
Have you used a different switch from the one i imagine you might have used?
Was it fused spur or a triple pole?
Does it never come on no matter what lights/ you turn on or off? Were there 2 cores going into your supply side of switch live?
Have you checked that you haven't tightened a terminal onto the core PVC sheath and so stopping connection?
If you have a volt pen, you can double check your supply from load and switch live.
I can only guess your switch live is broken, sheathed or loose and your LEDs are looped from that terminal in the fan isolator switch.
Crystal ball scratching here.

[ericmark]

There are two methods to fault find.
1) You take a informed guess as to where fault is likely to be, and check that area.
2) You slowly test step by step.
My first step would be check if my RCBO is switched on, and I would press the test button and see it trip, then reset it, this assumes you have RCBO protection, you may have a RCD and MCB, but again switch off and on again.

I live my non contact voltage tester on my meter, and in the main mine is sensitive enough to detect power in a switch or socket, but a metal socket or switch will form a faraday cage, I hate metal switches and sockets, but some the metal front does unclip. The problem is without a non contact tester the only way is to remove the device and then switch supply back on to test, and this clearly involves some danger, I have already been kicked of this forum once for suggesting things which may involve danger, so your limited to simple inspection, however taking pictures and posting them may mean others on here can see what you have done wrong.