laminate round existing kitchen cupboards
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leeky_bee
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laminate round existing kitchen cupboards

by leeky_bee » Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:02 pm

please does anyone have any tips about laying laminate flooring around existing kitchen cupboards. Will the floor 'stay put' if it is not edged right up to the wall? I was hoping to be able to lay it to but against the cupboards I have and then replace the plinths, but will this move over time? Any hints appreciated.

Joiner_Mike
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Laminate flooring in kitchen

by Joiner_Mike » Thu Jun 19, 2008 9:35 pm

Hi mate
How many square metres is the kitchen? Why will you have to buy new plinths? Can they not be removed without damaging? What is the make of laminate floor e.g. quickstep and what type of lockng system does it have?

leeky_bee
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by leeky_bee » Fri Jun 20, 2008 11:05 pm

The kitchen is just over 12m2 but the floor area I'm hoping to cover is around 10. By 'replace' i'd meant put back rather than buy new, although on second look they are pretty well fixed and may break if I remove them. Almost tempted to laminate up to the plinths, but this probably not ideal. The laminate is Wicks Fast Fix.
Thanks for answering.

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Your floor

by Joiner_Mike » Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:17 am

Hi
It will say leave a 10-12mm gap around the primeter of this flooring to allow for expansion but i work it out have an expansion of approx 1mm per 10 sqm so thats nothing. Laminating 2mm off the plinths will be no problem then fill the 2mm with silicone to seal in the outer edges and stop water getting underneath. The only problem is your have bought tounge and groove laminate. I find these a nightmare the quick step lock in design is so much better. Not only quick step use this method there are cheaper brands. It doesn't show a pic of the locking system on wickes's website so it is gard to tell what system it is but by it saying tongue and groove im persuming it is the nasty sort. Do you boards look like this at the sides of the board __________________
!--- !
! ------
----- -----!
!------------------------

sorry about the bad atempt of the drawing. If it is I find these part easy and are twice as hard to fit. Since it is in a kitchen it may come apart even easier. If you have bought it already and it was very cheap then you can't loose anything in trying it. But put a flooring seal in the groove before you lock it in. Ths will seal the joints and prevent any water getting under the boards

leeky_bee
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by leeky_bee » Tue Jun 24, 2008 2:06 pm

Thanks Mike for all the advice. We are starting tomorrow - have now got all the bits except glue and silicon sealant. Can't really get what you mean from the drawing, but you have to tilt each board slightly to get it to 'lock in' to the next board, so I'm hoping it will stay put. Thanks again. Lee

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Good Luck

by Joiner_Mike » Tue Jun 24, 2008 11:56 pm

Of you have to tilt it then you have the better locking system. You don't normaly need glue for this locking method just some silicone for the edges and some seal which you put in the groove of the laminate...not glue as suck suck a sealant to prevent water getting in though the joints where they lock together. Good luck mate

matt77
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Re: Good Luck

by matt77 » Wed Jun 25, 2008 1:15 pm

I have a similar query - new kitchen going in next week and will then be laying laminate flooring (no glue needed). i was planning on removing the plinths and laying the laminate just under the units but not flush to the wall. This will mean that the flooring will not be flush to all 4 walls and have a similar concern to Lee that the floor might move over time. is this a risk?

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Similar problem

by Joiner_Mike » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:34 pm

Laminates are pretty safe, they don't ever expand like the makers like to make you believe. Your plan sounds good to me. I would again seal bottom of plinths just to prevent water getting though and under the flooring. Good luck let us all know how you get on

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by matt77 » Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:30 pm

thanks for that - i'll let you know how it goes

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