Oven and hob replacement Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[KenW13]

Hi

Need some advice.

Decent at DIY jobs, i.e. fitted complete bathroom including “Replacing” an existing shower.

My cooker oven has failed but the rest of it works so it’s the unit and it needs replacing, so a new one needs installing.

Now it should be the straightforward replacement of an existing oven and hob in the exact spot of the current unit using the existing cables. So as a direct replacement and my understanding is that as long as there is no modification to any circuit required it is fully part P compliant if I do it.

The existing oven and hob (professionally installed 20 years ago in a mid 1980s house as part of a new kitchen and extension) is supplied correctly via an isolation switch using cable imprinted with LTC BASEC [Content removed] and the whole flat cable has a size of 13x7.5mm including the grey outer insulation. But not being a professional electrician I am not sure from the outside what the core sizes are and the max capacity of the cable is. The RCD on the consumer unit that controls this circuit is labelled 45A.
What I want to make sure is I don’t buy a cooker/hob that requires a higher draw than the cable can supply.

So the current hob is listed as 6kw and the oven at 3125 watts.

So I want to know how to find out the capacity of the cable so I don’t get a cooker/hob that requires to much power.

So my choice is get a unit that is less powerful than my existing, difficult these days as most seem higher powered.

Pay Currys or another retailer to install it (seems like 150 quid)

Get an electrician to assess the current install and let me know what power I can go up to and make changes if needed, what is this going to cost?

Thanks Ken

[Mr White]

Cable size is not measured by the physical external size, it is measured by its cross-sectional area of the conductors, this will be printed/embossed on the outer sheath of the cable.
Ratings for cookers do not work the way you think they do, they rely on diversity, I would suggest you engage the services of an electrician to check everything for you.

[ericmark]

I has been a British standard to supply cookers with a B32 MCB/RCBO for as long as I can remember, well in days of fuses 30 amp, As long as the cooker says it will work with 32 amp there should not be a problem. The cooker may use 60 amp with all switched on, but diversity means rare to draw that, and worse case the MCB trips so no harm done, going over 32 amp you have no idea if the internals will be good enough in fault conditions, and never seen a cooker with a maximum stated, so we just keep to 32 amps.