Building Corner (L Shape) Desk Out of Worktop - Advice Needed Kitchens, doors, rails, stud, tables, chairs, stair cases, garden furniture etc... Find answers and ask questions here!

[Hamza]

Hi everyone, first time posting here, and somewhat of a DIY novice, so apologies in advance.

I am building a corner desk, to go in my office, along two walls, both of which are dot and dab walls. The desk will be for myself and my younger brothers, so it will have 3-4 computer rigs (PC, monitor, peripherals, etc) so I do not want to be worried that it won't be able to support itself.

The Wood

I will be purchasing an oak worktop (https://www.worktop-express.co.uk/wood_ ... ktops.html) (4M X 620 X 40mm). They offer a cutting service, which I will be taking advantage of, as I do not have the tools to cut it accurately, nor create the joint (Butt Joint). The two resulting pieces are as follows:

2.5M x 620 x 40mm

1.5M x 620 x 40mm

My Plan

The main issue I am running into is how exactly is the best way to support the desk. I am planning to use steel X shaped legs (https://www.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk/ ... 3739181190) (H:71mm x L:58mm) for each end of the L.
As well as this, I will be running wooden battens along the wall, fixed into the wall using Corefix PLUS30 fittings (https://www.screwfix.com/p/corefix-meta ... pack/401hg).
Finally, I will have a leg where the two pieces meet, i.e. under the butt joint.

My Question(s)

1) Will this support be sufficient?, if not what can I do to improve it?
2) I plan to use the corner of the L to house the PCs themselves, is this a bad idea? As I feel perhaps that is the weakest area of the desk, due the joint etc
3) If you have any remarks please let me know

[stoneyboy]

Hi hamza
Suggest you make sure your supplier is making a finished machine cut rather than a free hand one. Also better to use worktop legs because these are adjustable in place of the z-frame ones.
If your supplier will machine out the join line for worktop bolts you will get a much stronger join.
Regards S

[Hamza]

Thank you for your reply!
A couple of follow up questions, if you don't mind, sorry for my lack of knowledge

make sure your supplier is making a finished machine cut rather than a free hand one.

What exactly is the difference between the two?

Also better to use worktop legs because these are adjustable in place of the z-frame ones.

Right, that makes sense, how many legs would you recommend? Also how many to use? And is there a particular brand/make you know of that are reputable/sturdy?

If your supplier will machine out the join line for worktop bolts you will get a much stronger join.

I think they do this. This is what their website says:

During the fabrication process, our team measure, plan and cut your butt joint to size and rout three holes to the underside of both worktops. We supply you with three connector bolts – all you have to do is tighten these bolts to fix them firmly together.

Final question is, d'you reckon it won't sag/bow? and hold up its weight?

Cheers

[stoneyboy]

Hi hamza
A freehand cut will be done using a circular saw and is generally where an approximate size is wanted for finishing on site. For a machine cut a router will be used because this does not give splintering of the edges.
Suggest you use three legs and see if this works ok when you put all your equipment on the bench - if the 2.5m length bows you can always add another leg.
Pick a leg which has a decent size flange for fixing into your worktop and use brass or stainless screws.
Regards S