by ericmark »
Sat Aug 19, 2023 4:34 pm
The old bi-metal strip thermostat normally had a heater to reduce the difference between on and off temperatures so had three wires, feed, return and neutral, however often for frost protection the heater was not required so it may be only two wire.
In the main they would work a motorised valve which would in turn switch boiler on off, so in the main 230 volt, however there were some 24 volt versions, so some testing is required.
Again in theroy there should be one point of low voltage isolation for the central heating, but when I moved in here not only multi points but also from different distribution units.
There are normally some clues, often one can find the motorised valves either by the hot water tank or the boiler. Hive is an odd one out as thermostats go, both in not having the option for ebus connection, and allowing the two contacts with the duel channel version to power the boiler and motorised valve independently, Plus the way the TRV's connect to it, so it needs to be in an area normally kept cool as it will stop accepting demands for heat once it hits 22 degs C.
I am not saying it is a bad thermostat, but an odd one out, likely better than Nest even when Nest has got OpenTherm, but this means one has to be careful and one needs to know how yours is wired.
If my own house, I would take pictures to show how wired, and put each wire in a block connector and then see if heating still works, if it does then simple blanking plate so you know where the wires are.
I would also use my non contact voltage tester to see if it shows live, although readings from these can be misleading.