Hall, Stairs & Landing lights not working Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[thedoctor4564444]

Hello
I had Schneider Electric Pendants fitted for my hall , stairs & landing lights. I wanted to change them as the bulbs weren't lasting very long
I swapped the pendants, for standard ceiling pendants.
The lights are controlled by 4 switches.
1 in the hall which turns the hall light on/off downstairs
1 on the stairs turns on/off the landing lights upstairs
2 on the landing turn on/off the landing lights upstairs
Now the light in the hall works fine, but the switch on the stairs & the 2 on the landing do not turn the landing lights on or off at all.

I have only swapped the pendants & not messed with the switches at all

What could be wrong?

[Mr White]

What could be wrong?

You have wired it wrong, although that does not help much, with such little information provided by yourself (Such as exactly what did you do, colours of wires, how many etc) It would be like me saying "I went to lunch at the local Chinese restaurant, there was a wide variety on the menu, what did I have?" Unless you were there, you will never know.

I can only suggest you call a competent person, who has test kit, to establish exactly what you have done and correct your error.

Next time, I suggest you take pictures before, during and after, so at least you can provide more information, or at leat put it back the way it was.

[ericmark]

Standard British way to wire lights are to take the lives and earth ceiling rose to ceiling rose, then at each rose take the line to the switch and the switches line back.

The ceiling rose will normally have a clamp for the earths, then a row of 8 connectors split into 3, 3, 2 the first 3 are neutral, next 3 are permanent line, and final 2 are switched line.

Note line and neutrals are collectively called live.

So it would seem your a wire short in one of the 3 group connectors, either the neutral or the line are missing to next lamp.

I use a meter, and testing for line can be done contact less, so that is stage one for me, it depends what you have to test with. If meter shows there is a line, then I know neutral fault, but some way you need to test.

With no meter, power off of course, a gentle tug on each wire can some time find a wire you thought was connected but had managed to pop out. But can't really help over this as we can't see what you have done.