by ericmark »
Sun Dec 30, 2007 2:20 am
Page 9 h. The installation of fixed equipment is within the scope of Part P, even where the final connection is by a 13A plug and socket. However, work is notifiable only if it involves fixed wiring and the installation of a new circuit or the extension of a circuit in a kitchen or special location or associated with a special installation.
On a personal note I don't agree with Part P for DIY but do for trade people. The DIY will still go on but now with less ability to get their work checked it will go underground. So I still give advise.
3 and 13 amp fuses are the two preferred sizes although others exist since they are not used with PAT tested equipment they are harder to find. They are when used in plugs to protect the cable not the item used which if it requires protection should have the device built into the equipment. (Because in other countries in EU there are no fuses in plugs).
I recommended 5 amp max as this is normal as max for lighting circuits but 3 amp would be enough in fact unless more than 200 watt is used a 1 amp would do the job.
On alarm insulation jobs I have used silicon sealant to glue wires up room corners etc. Looks better than rows of clips. Used selotape masking tape or insulation tape to hold while it sets. 1mm flex may be also stuck in this way.
Surface wiring is in some ways safer as it can be seen and it is unlikely to get screws and nails in it but the practice of running cables under carpets I think is very dangerous.
Most wall lamps will not be designed for surface cables and some common sense is required as to how to terminate the cable. Some form of cable clamping is needed.
My wall lights were designed to screw onto a conduit box others onto switch boxes and some seem to expect cables to take up no room at all and are very hard to fit. One can only advise when all facts are known but I am sure you can use common sense.
All best Eric
