Cement render vs drylining Ask your questions and find answers on many subjects relating to plastering and dry lining

[madalicesdad]

We've got a late Victorian house, external walls are 18" thick stone, internal walls single skin 4" thick brick. We've knocked off all the original plaster and render from the walls in the dining room and have two options:

Cement render with damp proofing additive or Dryline (with vapour barrier and possibly insulation on external walls). Both followed by plaster skim.

As rendering is a lot of effort and/or cost (depending on diy or professional) I am tending to veer towards drylining. I was thinking about battening the external stone walls and dot and dab for the internal walls.

There will be no heavy items mounted on the walls so assuming plasterboard is the solution, could I get away with 9mm or would 12mm be better?

Any thoughts on pros/cons of each option or alternative suggestions?

Mike

[kbrownie]

Dry- lining okay, and it's seems you have give it some good consideration and have a good idea of what you are doing. The thicker the board the more insulation against, fire, sound, and thermal benefits.
KB

[madalicesdad]

Thanks for the comments. You are partially correct - I have given it some consideration, but as for a good idea of what I'm doing.... :).
I have done D&D before, but never with battening, so apologies if this seems a stupid question. The batten size generally recommended seems to be nominal 50x25mm. Am I correct in assuming it fits longest side to the wall, ie leaving a 25mm gap for insulation.
Mike

PS the battens will be treated softwood

[kbrownie]

I'd suggest that you also put up a barrier of polythene sheeting between the timber and wall as extra moisture protection. Calculate distance of timbers by firstly determining which size boards are to be used. ie 2400x1200, ideally want 600 centre timbers, and cross timbers and the end timbers each side of the centre can take edge of that board and next board.
KB

[madalicesdad]

My concern with sheeting between the wood and the wall is that if damp does get in, it cannot escape back through the wall and I'll end up with a damp cavity.
I intend to batten the external walls with 25x50 treated battens, put insulation (eg Kingspan) in the gap, cover it with a polythene sheet and then board it. For the internal walls I'll apply a coat of PVA before the D&D.
The whole room will be done in 12.5mm board.

I've just had a very reasonable quote for plastering the whole room and ceiling, so it should look ok at the end as well!
Thanks for the advice.
Mike

[Perry525]

The correct position for an almost water vapour proof barrier, is under the plasterboard to protect the wooden battens, as these will otherwise absorb the water vapour in the room and become rotten.
If you fear the external walls are damp/may become damp then it is not a good idea to put the damp proof membrane between the wood and the wall.
A better idea is to glue the insulation to the wall and then wet plaster over, or buy something like Celotex P a combined plasterboard and insulation that may be glued to the walls and then skimmed,

[TheDoctor5]

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