removal of radiator inc valves and capping off pipework Help and information on all topics relating to your central heating, air conditioning and ventilation issues.

[demon]

I want to remove a radiator in my kitchen and completely cap off the pipework, but I'm worried about future leaks (I'm putting cabinets where the radiator is currently)
What's the best method of removal? How do i cap off the pipes? Will it affect the balance of the rads elsewhere?

[stoneyboy]

demon,
If you have a single pipe system with full flow through the radiator your suggestion will not work.
To remove the rad, drain the system and replace the valve with compression blanking caps, the thread on the valves should match that on the caps.
end

[demon]

Thanks for the reply. Do you mean that any rads further down the line would, in effect, be cut off from the supply if I remove this one rad?
If I want it removed should I re-route the pipework? Seems like a lot of hardwork for a couple of kitchen cabinets.

[rosebery]

SBs suggestion will work if you are happy to leave the pipes sticking out of the floor. It would be best IMO to cut down the pipes so that the are below the floor level.

No it shouldn't affect your system balance but it woud be wise to check it afterwards.

If going to the plumbers merchants ask for "stop ends" not "blanking caps".

Do you have a combi boiler or do you still have tanks in your roofspace. If the latter and you are confident you can remove this rad by "bungng" the F&E tank but you MUST bung BOTH the vent and the feed. If completely draining down don't forget your inhibitor when you refill.

[demon]

Thanks guys.

If I'm right in understanding, the system should be completely drained (seen the other posts for this method, and am okay in doing it) then the rad can be removed along with the two valves. The pipes actually come out of the wall (the house is drylined, the pipes are in the cavity - and there s definately not another rad the other side of the wall) so i could make a larger hole and cut the pipework back in the wall cavity, fit the stop ends and refill the system. That way everything is hidden. Does that sound feasible?

[rosebery]

Feasible - yes sort of. But you say the pipes come out of the wall. Are the pipes plastic?

Cheers

[demon]

no,they're both copper

[rosebery]

I only asked because there is an increasing tendency to use hep or speedfit coming out of the wall in modern houses.

There are now a couple of issues. If you are going to cap off and then plaster over then the copper pipes should really have soldered stop ends rather than compression because they will be totally inacessible afterwards. You CANNOT solder wet pipe so you must ensure that the pipe is quite dry.

So the question is do the pipes come down the stud wall from upstairs or up from under the floor. In either case they really should be cut off and capped under the floor as it is not good practice to have "dead ends".

What we also do not know is whether the pipes concerned are for the last radiator on the loop. If it is the "capping off" will not be necessary because the pipes need to be joined so that the flow / return loop is maintained when the radiator is removed.

You are going to have to lift floorboards methinks to find out.

Cheers

[demon]

arrgh! more issues... :( as far as we know the pipes come from upstairs.
I'm semi confident of my soldering ability, but i think i'll still use compression ends and leave the stubs sticking out of the wall - afterall they will be hidden by the kitchen units, and accessible in the future.
Moving furniture upstairs and lifting carpets and floorboards would have to be an absolute last resort.
Just so I know, how would i check if the rad is the last one on the loop?

[rosebery]

Normally its a fair bet that its the one which warms up last.

Cheers

[Steve the gas]

Is it the last one to get hot from cold start up??