question on installing 2 x 13A Switch FCU Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[JockeyB]

Hello. I've been advised to install two 13A Switch FCU's above a kitchen worktop as currently both fridge & dishwasher are plugged directly into a 2 gang socket. The socket is below worktop level and therefore I wondered if I could keep the appliances plugged in to the socket and run 2.5mm cable from the socket to both FCU's. Is that possible?
Also, I was unsure whether 13A FCUs would be sufficient for these appliances. Do I need to check the current rating on each appliance?

Thanks in advance

UPDATE: 13/05/09: Now know that I can use a 3A FCU for fridge and 13A for dishwasher. Am still interested in opinion regarding plugging appliances into a double gang socket then running the socket to the 2 FCU's. Thank you

[stoneyboy]

JockeyB,
There is not sufficient detail in your post for forum members to give a definitive reply, however, why bother with FCUs - sounds like more trouble than it is worth.
end

[kbrownie]

You only need Switched FCUs if the appliances are built in (integral) equipment.
If stand alone, which are the type you can pull out from under worktops it is not a requirement.
Don't get me wrong it's handy to have a means of isolation above the work top but only required for built in appliances.
In this case 13amp protection is right and need to be protected seperate.
KB

[bd3cc]

My understanding is that the FCU should contol the outlet.

[JockeyB]

Thanks all. The new fridge is an integral one. Does that have to be wired directly into 3A FCU or can I plug it in (to an existing double gang socket that's already there, below the worktop) and run cable from socket to FCU? Dishwasher is old (not integral) so I may continue to leave that just plugged in.
The available 2G socket that both could be plugged into is currently fixed directly behind the dishwasher so I was a bit worried about any water potentially leaking into it. Any thoughts on that.
Hope above is enough info
Thank you
Jockey B

[kbrownie]

[quote]UPDATE: 13/05/09: Now know that I can use a 3A FCU for fridge and 13A for dishwasher. Am still interested in opinion regarding plugging appliances into a double gang socket then running the socket to the 2 FCU's. Thank you

Don't quite know what you trying to get at,
The S/FCU needs to be before the socket outlet, to be used as a means of isolation. So you would need to break in to your power circuit at a convenient/suitable point and add the S/FCU before the socket outlet supplying the appliance .
So you can switch load on/off at S/FCU. This would ideally mean using individual single socket outlets for each appliance.
If you did what I think you are trying to suugest the first S/FCU would isolate both appliances so not really suitable, as each appliance should have seperate isolation, this is only needed for built in appliances.
This work is deemed to be complient to BS7671 and covered by Part P of building regs. Have a look in projects Under Part P: https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/partp.htm
KB [/quote]

[JockeyB]

Thanks KB. I think I understand what you mean. The ring main has to feed directly into the S/FCU. Could I therefore keep the existing double socket with the non-integral dishwasher plugged in, continue ring from the socket to a 3A S/FCU (for the integral fridge) and continue ring from FCU to next socket?
Thanks

[kbrownie]

You could keep the socket there regardless of it being an integral or free standing appliance.
But if it was integral it would need a means of isolation (S/FCU), you still need a socket to plug in to.
But you seem to have got the idea, your S/FCU will have a supply side and a load side.
They supply side will allow you to keep other outlets powered up via that contection. Supply Line and Neutral
The load side will allow you to drop a socket-outlet(spur) from it that can be operated using the S/FCU for your appliance, as long as your fridge plug is rated at correct fuse rating it does not need to be 3amp it can be 13amp S/FCU.
You will also get away with using 1.5 T+E on the spur cable, if you wanted to.
but 2.5 is fine.
Again it is a location that is covered by Part P, even though the work that is being done is considered minor work, you will still need minor work cert and part p approval. It is a legal obligation.
KB