Huge Issues With a Spotlight - Buld Twists but Does not Release? Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[captaincalamity]

Hello people, I have an issue I'd be very grateful for any help with.

Had a kitchen fitted a while ago and had six spots fitted. I've changed a couple of bulbs. One has gone for the first time. Here's the problem, the holder twists to release but then won't drop, it's as if there is no give in the cable. Like a genius - hence the user name - I went at the edges of the bulb with long nosed pliers. Huge mistake, the bulb smashed. Now I am unable to pull the bulb down as there is no give in the cable and I can't get the broken bulb to turn in the fitting as I can't hold the connector

I'm sure I've used lots of incorrect terms, but if anyone can help I'd be most grateful

Phil

[ericmark]

I can only guess but some times when a bulb blows inside the bulb we get ionisation of the gases (big flash) which means for a few seconds a very high current. With a B6 MCB the trip will open in the main quick enough to prevent damage but where a larger MCB or RCBO have been fitted often with latter a C6 rather than B6 then the MCB is not fast enough and the contacts of the bulb can weld into the holder. If this happens then no option you have to renew the holder. I am assuming GU10 bulb which is a bayonet fitting twist to release not had it happen with them but has happened with standard BA22d bulb but since twisting bulb would not release it possible that has happened.

So even if you turn off power and smash out the bulb and remove bits with long nose pliers likely you will not be able to fit new bulb some thing will be left behind.

So with wires too short it would seem floor boards up to disconnect likely easier than damaging ceiling. Sorry can't be of more help. Check size of MCB lights normally B6 if it is a B6 likely I am wrong. If it's a C16 then likely I am correct.

The regulations allow up to a 16 amp MCB for lights but in the main some where you will have a ceiling rose which is only rated at 6A or some switch only rated at 6A so 6A is the normal size. But the GU10 lamp is rather poor at lighting a room. Great at lighting a picture on the wall but not a whole room. So instead of using maybe 100W to light a large room people use 300W or even more. 6A = 1500W approx and with the little spots very quickly around the house the limit is exceeded so swapping MCB to 10A is all too common. And that is the start of further problems as know body seems to do all the checks before changing them.

[captaincalamity]

Extremely grateful for your detailed reply, but I don't think that's the issue. With all the lights I've replaced so far the bulb and cable drop out of the holder. This one has no give in the wire. I've pulled the whole unit down to see if I can see somewhere it could be trapped, however it's a solid Black plastic unit and I can't see anything.

When they were originally fitted no work was done from above. I assume this means that if I do remove the casing it's all downward and I have no choice but to damage the ceiling?

Thanks again

Phil

[captaincalamity]

Sorry, to confirm my mcb for downstairs lighting is a B6

[ericmark]

I had assumed you had GU10 fittings but may be GU5.3? Rather confusing as the mains bulbs (230vac called low voltage) are known by the bulb connection being GU10 but the extra low voltage units (12v) are known by the size MR16.

The GU10 is a bayonet and twists to remove. The GU5.3 is two pins and you remove a holding ring and then simply pull.

At a quick look they both look the same.

[captaincalamity]

Great news, I'm done. I managed to remove the whole unit. The legs sprung through nicely and didn't damage the ceiling.

No welding or problems. Bulb out bulb in.

Thanks for your help though