Replacing an external PIR lantern light Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[Moribund]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has experience of wiring an outside PIR light which is wired to an internal fused switch.

I’ve taken the old light off and the wiring coming in from the wall looks as per the image attached

The wiring for the new light looks as per the second image

The wiring on the new light appears to have only 3 connections where as the the old connection has what appears to be two live connections and 4 wires in total (I’m assuming one of these comes from the switch). How should I connect the 4 incoming wires to the new lamp?

Any suggestions or comments would be gratefully received

Thanks Moribund

[Mr White]

Your new light may not be suitable, some questions:

1) Your light appears to be made from metal, is it?

2) What is under/connected to the back of the 2nd terminal from the left?
(The front part has nothing) but what is the back connected or attached to?

3) Does the box / cardboard box for the new light have any "funny/odd symbols" on it.

4) Was there a switch indoors, so that you can have the external light on all the time?

5) Where did you get the new light?

[Moribund]

Mr.White,

Thanks for the response. I will try my best to answer…

1. The new light is made of metal, this is the model: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N7TXW9I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

2. If you mean on the new lamp the second terminal is an earth - the fitting nut adjacent to it has a lug which goes into the junction box.

3.see attached image of the side of the box

4, yes there is a fused switch in the hall that turns the light on/off

5, Amazon. Hopefully you can See link above

Many thanks

Moribund

5.

[ericmark]

Some PIR's can be shorted out, so can be over ridden, others can't.
Top clearly line supply.
Next parking place for earth wire. (Your green/yellow)
Next neutral. (Your grey with blue sleeve)
Bottom switched supply, with brown and red wire already fitted, so you have black with brown sleeve and a brown which likely go to top and bottom, but no idea which goes where, as nothing in pictures show which is switched line (bottom) and permanent line (top) of the black and brown wires.

Personally I would connect and test, and if did not work reverse the brown and black wires. But it could damage the PIR no way of knowing.

[Moribund]

Thanks for the response Eric.

All makes sense apart from the switched live (Black with brown sleeve). As you say the 4th connection on the block has a brown going into the top coming from the main cable going into the lamp and a red from the bottom going to the PIR unit.
Are you saying my switched live should share a connection with either the red or the brown but you can’t say which?
On the original connection block the black with brown sleeve is marked * and the brown is marked live
Thanks again for your help on this

[Mr White]

Connect the earth to the earth you mentioned.
Connect the grey (with blue sleeving) to the neutral (The one with 2 blue wires)
Connect the brown to the live (First terminal, the one that already has a brown)
The black (with brown sleeving) must go in its OWN connector or a wago. It must NOT be connected to the light, and insulation tape wrapped round will not be suitable.

[Moribund]

Thanks Mr. White,

So the switched live will not be connected to anything. How will this affect the function of the lamp - does this mean that the internal switch in the hall will no longer turn the unit on? The lamp will only come on through the PIR sensing movement?

[Mr White]

That is correct as your light does not have that facility.
It may however have the option to stay on if you switch the mains off and on within 2 seconds.

[Moribund]

Thanks for your help on this Mr. White - its appreciated.

I will route the switched live to its own junction box and connect nothing else to it