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winger

Relatively common due to expansion??? I've never seen the need to tell that to anybody before. I find that there is usually a reason for it to crack .

winger

Is this a timber frame, also is it internally or externally glazed and is is self draining? Everybody has different views on clearance, some say 10mm , but if it's a timber frame with only a 15mm upstand, i would go for 6mm, as this should conceal the spacer bar a bit better. You must use setting bl...

winger

Low modulus also goes by the title of 'neutral cure'. Haven't used the screwfix one. I tend to use Arbo, but i would personally use a good named brand if poss. Some of the cheaper silicones are a bit ......... well let's say you get what you pay for. That's just my opinion

winger

When you drill your large holes in the aluminium spacer bar the dessicant will fall out from the hole. It all sounds like alot of work and hassle for a short term solution. As i've said in previous posts the only answer is a new sealed unit. Most manufacturers give a 5 year warranty if fitted correc...

winger

It's fine to remove the tape, it's mainly something that customers request to help when handling. As for the joiner putting a trough top and bottom, sounds a bit naughty to me. The unit must sit on plastic blocks 3 -5mm ideally. Why should you pay for a new window only to have bits off it removed

winger

I think what you're talking about is a de-fogging valve? I can't see how they can be cleaned/repaired or whatever they do to them. I've been a glazier for over 20 years and can't see how it can work when they don't re-seal the unit (this is the common cause of the break down), they don't remove the ...

winger

It,s hard to say as different windows vary a bit, but are the beads internal or external? If they are internal then the rubber is usually part of the bead and a stiff flat knife under the bead should do the trick

winger

Welsh brickie is right, the only way is to replace the unit

winger

get a door and a window and there is section you can get from the supplier that snaps into them both . You will also need safety glass for the window aswell as it will be less than 300mm from the door (safety glass in doors is standard)

winger

Is it the self adeshive type that is on a single sheet of glass? If so , you,ll not be able to reuse it, also the residue of adeshive will be a bit of a nightmare to get off

winger

There is a system we use called easy fix (i think). You just have a plain sheet of glass, put a 'u' channel (it comes in white,brown or clear) around it and is held in place by screws and plastic clips. It's a piece of cake to fit and they can be removed simply by turning the clips in a matter of se...

winger

I wouldn't bother . To be totally honest it's a total waste of time and effort

winger

A piece of wood about 6mm thick,ideally at least the length of the cut and about 50mm wide placed under the cut, then place a hand each side of the cut and push down firmly is your best bet. There are different techniques but due to the sometimes poor quality of horticultural glass, i would use this...

winger

Well i think scaffolding is the correct thing as the window will need sealing on the outside. Trouble is nowadays health and safety has gone crazy and employers and employees all have to do the job as safe as possible

winger

Do you mean the sealed units or the frames need replacing? You will only need a certificate if the frames are being changed , if it's just the units a gaurantee will be fine. Also if it's just the units being replaced, what are the frames made of?

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