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Briggy

Hello again, just thought i'd add , if your house is really old , just double check there is a suitable lintel! But as i said before there will already be support , or the door would pinch so tight you would never be able to open/close it! Hope this helps.

Briggy

Hello, just use a pencil to draw the area you want to remove, then use a hammer drill with a good masonry bit to stitch drill out the bricks, (you don't need to buy an sds drill, just a drill with a hammer action on it!) then use a hammer and cold chisel to carefully breakout. Good luck.

Briggy

Hello, basically yes, take out door and door liner (this is the frame which is flush with the plaster) if your preference is stud work then you need to buy the thickness of timber required i.e. allowing for plaster board thickness etc... usually four by two , i would use 12.5 mm plasterboard, then b...

Briggy

Hello again, it's just fancy talk for raked out brickwork or running a scutch hammer over it! Regards!

Briggy

Hi, if the wall is load bearing it will already have support in the form of a lintel, the weight of the wall won't be resting on the door liner, stud work or block work will be fine! Regards!

Briggy

Hello again, just to add to last post, Sara seemed more concerned with loss of space then thermal properties! i was trying to find a happy medium for her problem! so thermo board would be good , you also can get a basic thermo board as thin as 22mm, i was just trying to give advice , with space savi...

Briggy

Hello Chris, i hate to say this , but browning should be applied to a mechanical key, then just dampen, (no bonding agents) also browning doesn't like to much exposure to moisture either, Ha Ha,(bp recommedation not mine!) i don't use it anymore if i can help it! i prefer hardwall. Hope this helps! ...

Briggy

Hi, give the door a good clean, if greasy use sugarsoap, then apply a metal primer before giving it a couple of coats of undercoat, lightly rubbing down in betwen each coat, before applying top coat. After any rubbing down make sure your dust free before each coat. Start painting by cutting in the s...

Briggy

Hi, a bit of a late reply, use a stabilising solution for exterior painting, you can buy this from any good decorating merchant, Regards.

Briggy

Hi, I personally can't think of one, just take the bull by the horns and go for it, if your not too confident don't take on more than one wall at a time at first until your speed is up, also get yourself a good sponge float (medium density) for plaster, this can help by bringing some fat out of the ...

Briggy

Hello, sounds like it's due for a reskim to me, for small cracks, holes etc... i would recomend easyfill or tetrion filler or equivalent. I personally don't recomend the light weight filler, this always remains soft and vulnerable to dent's, also gives an especially naff finish for painting. Regards.

Briggy

Hi, if i were you i would get an independant report done, sounds like your being fobbed off a bit to me. If the dpc,dpm were replaced properly, or walls injected properly nine years ago you shouldn't still be having problems! Also if your taking the plaster back to the brick, tank it out, dot and da...

Briggy

Hi, i take it this problem is on the ground floor? when the dpc was replaced were the cavities thoroughly cleaned? a bridged cavity will cause damp problems regardless of age. Also have you checked your dpm hasn't failed, if applicable! sometimes though damp can come in from failed flashings etc... ...

Briggy

Hello, personally i would dot and dab a moister resistant plasterboard (green board) and skim, foil back will have to be battened out first, so with my suggestion this will eliminate packing out battens for plumbing up, so less time consuming. Try using a supplier like ccf or cpd, they specialise in...

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