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DIYorNot

Thanks, that's pretty much what i was going to do. In terms of the earth - in the first set of pictures it is not connected to anything - should I just open that up and connect it to the switch (you are correct that it is going to be a metal switch). thanks for the reply Yes, just remove the protec...

DIYorNot

The black wire with red sleeving connected to the current switch probably indicates switched-live. You need to remove the screw terminal block from the existing switch backbox and sleeve the appropriate red wire that is switched-live, then connect your new switch. As proptech rightly pointed out, if...

DIYorNot

Firstly, total up the wattages of all the appliances that you have using. You can find this information on the information plate on each item appliance.

The blackening could be caused by the liquid spillage but it could have also been caused by a loose neutral wire in the terminal.

DIYorNot

Is the spur taken from the house via a FCU?

How is the 2.5mm² run from the house to the outhouse? Ideally, you should have used armoured cable - especially if it goes underground.

Don't attempt to reuse any of the burnt cable. What sort of load/equipment are you running from the socket?

DIYorNot

You may want to consider a remote wall control in another room as I mentioned previously. Many of the shower manufacturers offer this for walk-in showers.

Here is one by Mira:

http://www.mirashowers.co.uk/platinum/index.htm

DIYorNot

Also, I can see problems with the pir not sensing someone in the shower cubicle and turning the power off. Most PIR sensors have an 'on' timer which can be adjusted. So once triggered, it will keep the output 'on' for a set period. However, if the bathroom also has a toilet or someone is just is in...

DIYorNot

You would need to use a contactor not a relay. The contactor would fit in a DIN enclosure and you'd use the PIR to switch the contactor on.

Alternatively, look at the remote/wireless shower switches that some of the electric shower manufacturers such as Mira, Aqualisa and Creda offer.

DIYorNot

FP200 Gold can withstand high temperatures but is usually used for fire detectors and emergency lighting cabling in commercial installations. The cable should really be secured and avoid touching central heating pipes where possible. If it touches in a few places, that shouldn't be a problem. To con...

DIYorNot

Who asked you to install CO detectors around the house? You only really require a single CO detector in a central location or near the boiler etc.

You can download useful guides on sensor/alarm placement from the Aico website:

http://www.aico.co.uk/Publications.html

DIYorNot

Fire rated fittings were more of an issue with halogen lamps however, that's not to say that LED lamps don't catch fire. You need to establish whether the ceiling/void above provides a fire barrier and if it does, then you need fire rated fittings. The grey cable you are referring to is known as twi...

DIYorNot

You will need to install IPX4 rated light fittings or better. It is prefereable to use a SELV transformer to feed the lights if in an area that it likely to be splashed by water or above where you're showering. http://www.islandbathrooms.co.uk/blog/what-are-bathroom-electrical-zones- The thin white ...

DIYorNot

Is it a combi boiler? Or is it a system boiler with zone valves and an external pump etc? The TLM2628 has 20A rated contacts. If it is just switching a combi boiler, the BYC08 will be fine. This document shows the terminal connections for the Sunvic TLM2000 series room thermostats: http://www.sunvic...

DIYorNot

If you have the H3 model, I believe you can switch up to a 16A load:

http://milantrend.com/BYC08.pdf

As 'proptech' said, what are you switching with it?

DIYorNot

Are you sure the error code was E1-60 and not E160?

DIYorNot

The danger may be sometime in the future when someone is altering/adding to the wiring and assumes what should be the earth core is actually neutral.

If it isn't already, I would recommend that the cable is clearly labeled at both ends using a method that won't fade or fall off over time.

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