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[petter]

I HAVE A IMMERSION HEATER WHICH I BELIEVE IS A DIRECT TYPE, IT HAS BEEN FED 240 VIA A FUSED DIRECT WIRED PLUG TYPE SOCKET. I WISHED TO REPLACE THIS WITH A TIMER. THE FIRST TIMER FAILED AFTER TWO DAYS THE SECOND HAS JUST MELTED AFTER ABOUT ONE HOUR, I HAVE LOOPED THE LIVE TO THE COMMON ON THE TIMER, WIRED THE HEATER TO CONTACT 3 AS SHOWN IN THE SUPPLIED DRAWING- I BELIEVE THIS IS AN INDUSTRY STANDARD CONNECTION BACK PLATE.
THE WIRE FROM CONNECTION 3 GOES VIA A THERMOSTAT TO THE WATER HEATER.
I HAVE USED 1 SUNVIC AND 1 DRAYTON TIMER, THEY APPEAR TO BURN OUT FROM CONNECTION 3, THE MELTDOWN THEN TRIPS THE MCB IN THE SUPPLY BOX.
THE HEATER WORKS PERFECTLY OK WHEN CONNECTED TO DIRECT 240 AND DOSNT BLOW THE FUSE - IAM SURE THE WIRING IS CORRECT AS THE TIMERS WORK FOR A WHILE - HELP PLEASE

[ericmark]

An immersion heater is normally around the 3Kw mark, thats about 13 amp. Any timer must be able to switch 13 amp many timers are designed for central heating with often less than a 3 amp load. Did you select correct model for high current. I can't find any Sunvic or Drayton time switches rated more than 6 amp. I note screwfix list two designed for the job. Neither have make marked on them.

[petter]

thanks for quick reply i checked my timers and both are only rated at 3amp iwill shop around for a high current model - thanks again