Hi mjcopo,
Wickes stock 21mm thick floorboards which I found to be better than standard softwood floorboards or 22mm chipboard sheets. You can either accept the joins won’t line up or machine the floorboards down to size.
Regards S
Hi tedpea,
I’d recommend you use a 6:1:1 building sand, Portland cement, hydrated lime mix with additive. Rake out the loose mortar, damp the mortar line, fill with the mortar mix and tool it off once this can be done without creating a messy joint.
Regards S
Hi millsy5, I suspect that the base rail for your shed is fixed down into the concrete base and its section is such that any rain running down the shed panels is channelled outwards. If this is correct, did you use any mastic sealer between the base rail and the concrete base? If not you will have t...
Hi andyred,
Suggest you buy some ledged and braced doors which will be oversize but are easy to trim to the dimensions you’ve given. You could try a reclaim yard where the doors will be better quality but will probably need renovating.
Regards S
Hi millsy5,
It depends on how thick you make the mortar layer but a 12.5kg bag of cement and 2 bags of building sand should be plenty. Do use plasticiser admixture to make mortar more workable and to extend its useable time.
Regards S
Hi girlie26,
It’s difficult to comment with the low angle the pictures ar taken from but it looks as though the bottom row of tiles has been replaced with an eaves protector strip. Suggest you get in a roof survey company and see what they report.
Regards S
Hi ghh, However you try to insulate the gap from within your loft you are likely to end up with gaps which may allow cold bridging on the ceiling below. You will have most success by stripping off the tiles battens and felt and then fitting PIR insulation sealed in place with expanding foam. PIR sla...
Hi wolfatthedoor. Try fitting a length of brush nylon self adhesive draught seal on the hinge side of the door. You may have to use one designed for garage doors if the gap is large. Don’t forget to clean the frame where the strip is going to go with a solvent. Composite doors are probably the best ...
Hi ajsm,
If you are going to form the new step with its top surface below the DPC level do not use anything in the join. The only problem will be that you will have a 480mm+ step to get over the door threshold.
Regards S
Hi burt12345, It’s difficult to say whether your proposal will solve the problem. It is possible that the blue membrane lapped too far into the valley was allowing rainwater to ingress by capillary action. It sounds like you have a lead valley gutter and slate roofs either side, it could be that the...
Hi burt12345, Starting from the lowest component you should have a valley rafter with roof rafters mitred onto it from both sides, there should then be a layer of underslaters felt, this can be the felt from both sides of the valley lapped right over the valley to provide a watertight covering or a ...
Hi atagirl123,
Best to use a mini circular saw but you will still have to remove the door floor track to give you access. If you are ok cutting along beside the floor track you could use a floorboard saw - these have curved blades.
Regards S
Hi claresunshine, Remove all the steel hammer fixings, gently prise the wood away from the wall using some sort of lever bar just enough to give a gap. Use a sharpened scraper to cut the plastic plugs close to the wall surface, once the wood is out of the way you could try using a screw to remove th...
Hi rhtsj90,
Fit some of the corrugated eaves vent strip in the narrow gap between the wall plate and sarking, you can then fit your insulation in the remaining gap. The corrugations will maintain ventilation.
Regards S
Hi granto1986,
Yes remove them but you may have to provide an alternative means of support for the felt/tiles e.g.a strip of ply along the eaves edge.
Regards S
