Hi Kevin I would suggest taking that ball type valve off, and having a look. These valves have a surprisingly small bore, and anything could end up causing a blockage.
Not really possible to say without knowing what was used to fix the rose, or what the ceiling is made of. If you can get access above, you'd get a better idea of what is going on.
These are for permanent use, but what you seem to be suggesting sounds like something of a total bodge. There are also special regulations covering this type of ascending shower.
Hi Greenseeder You need access to the other side of the plasterboard in order to use those back nuts. The threads look like 1/2 inch from the photo. To check that they're not 3/4 have a measure, 1/2 is very approx 7/8 inch dia. Therefore you will need some 1/2 PSP to copper fittings Having said all ...
Thanks for the feedback Willy. As you are obviously aware, decorating can be a far more skilled job than is often recognised, and very hard work. You mention mist coating. On every can of paint, the instructions recommend thinning on absorbent surfaces - It seems that most ignore it, or don't even r...
Hi Willy Firstly, there is no stabiliser that can penetrate paint, and 'stick' it back. So if adhesion is that bad, then removal is the answer. Then we have the question of what, if anything was on the walls before the failing paint. Could the walls have been papered in the past ? if so there could ...
You say the pin is free, but what actually sticks is the valve washer to the seating. The best, and only positive way of checking would be to disconnect the rad and open the valve.
Hi GrumpyMike I would suggest that the reason for the lack of products is simply due to there being very few gravity systems in use these days. Having said that, it's quite possible to find a few that will do the job. I just wonder if it's really worth doing. The 30/60 was a very good programmer, al...
Hi MmeP As you say, this is not an ideal situation, but if you pop into a proper plumber's merchants they should be able to sort you out with an offset pan connector.
Yes, the valve can be capped. One way would be to remove the valve tail from the rail, fit with (usually) 1/2 BSP cap, and reconnect to the valve. On some valves this can be done direct, but without knowing what valves you have, I'd be guessing.
Hi Sandy1 I think you should ask the builder exactly what he means by pointing, and what he's actually done. Re-pointing would normally involve exterior work, and is indeed time consuming. There's certainly no sign of much work being done to the walls in your photos.
No you do not pump the inlet of an electric shower. If the hot is gravity fed, where is the supply. there must be a tank of some sort, combined with the cylinder ?
Any use of water will lower the level, allowing the valve to start replacing the loss. Your old valve must have been very quiet, or was sticking in the closed position.
Just a thought David, are you sure it is plasterboard. Reading your post again, I'm a little surprised as in the 30s most ceilings were lath and plaster.
